There are an infinite number of hair cuts to choose from, but there are some basic guidelines you can follow to make sure that however you cut, it comes out looking good. Here are some principles, based on professional cosmetology training, to help you get started.
Steps
- 1Decide whether to cut wet or dry. If the hair is going to be cut with scissors, the hair needs to be damp (not wet) so it can be combed into place with the ends lining up neatly when being cut. If the hair is dry, it'll be harder to control; if it's too wet, it'll clump and drip. If you're cutting hair with clippers, however, cut the hair dry, or else the haircut will be uneven because wet hair clumps and bends away from the blades. If the person has "hat hair", it should be washed and dried right before cutting with clippers.[1] It's a good idea, in general, to wash hair before cutting because:[2]
- Clean hair is easier to cut if it's clean (no gels or hair spray).
- If you're cutting someone else's hair, you can get a better feel for the natural shape/curl of the hair when it's been freshly washed (i.e. not styled in any way).
- If you're cutting someone else's hair, it's more sanitary to handle clean hair.
- Dry hair is more likely to dull professional hair cutting shears (or any sharp edge).
- 2Choose a hair cut that is compatible with your/their particular face shape. Measure the face to determine the face shape; over time you'll be able to do this without actually measuring. Choose a haircut that balances and complements the face shape, not one that distorts it. For example, if the person has a very round face, consider sleek lines, tapered ends, and pixie cuts. Any haircut with bulk will often make the face look fat.
- 3Get detailed instructions for the particular cut you're doing. When reading instructions for creating a certain cut or style, you might come across terms that you're not familiar with.
- Angle indicates the position of the scissors when cutting: vertical, horizontal, or 45 degrees.[3]
- Elevation refers to which direction the hair is pointing, no matter where on the head it originates. When the ends point to the floor, the hair is said to be at zero degrees of elevation. When the hair is pointing to the side (with the shafts parallel to the floor), it is at 90 degrees--this is how hair is held when cutting layers. When hair is held so that the ends point to the ceiling, it is at 180 degrees.[3]
- 4Cut in sections. With most hair cuts, you'll need to cut one section at a time and keep the other sections out of the way while you do so. Many cosmetologists are taught to use 7-section parting (top, right side, left side, right crown, left crown, right nape and left nape) and work from back to front and from the bottom up.[4]
- 5Texturize. Many hair styles require texturizing, which involves cutting hair to reduce bulk without reducing length. It can be used to achieve a wide variety of effects, depending on the hair type and the desired result: adding volume, reducing volume, making hair "move" or blending one area into another. Texturizing can be accomplished with cutting shears, thinning shears, or a razor. There are several basic techniques:[5]
- Point cutting
- Notching
- Free-hand notching
- Slithering
- Slicing
- Shears-over-comb
- Razor tapering
- Free-hand slicing
Video
Tips
- Use professional hair cutting shears for best results.
- Don't cut too much if you are new to cutting hair. You can cut more if it's too long, but you can't do anything but wait for a few months if it's too short.
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